Saturday 11 October 2014

Dedicated to Pam & in memory of Janice



Realised I have not written another blog post since 22nd August – this must show how busy I’ve been. So busy that I can’t remember what I’ve done – either that or old ageis catching-up with me. In Rwandan terms, I am, sadly, an old man or “Muzehe” as they sometimes refer to me – this is, apparently, a respectful term for an old person.
I have to admit it is quite hard to keep up a blog. I did say to a very good friend of mine, Pam, that I worried that people would find it all rather boring but she very kindly responded saying “your blog is NOT boring at all. It makes incredible reading, you are living such an alien life to what we all know.” So Pam, this blog post in specially dedicated to you.

The Old Man or "Muzehe"
So, what have I been doing? As I’ve said before, and apologies for repeating myself, my days and weeks here are very varied and recently I found myself at the ‘official’ opening of the Diocese Clinic and the next day on Nkombo Island giving out 30 goats!

Recently the Clinic, just one of the projects here including the guest house, a farm and schools run by the Diocese, went into partnership with the Government of Rwanda and is now a Health Centre able to provide a wide range of medical services to the community here.  Sadly, it comes with an agreement that the Diocese must build a maternity unit by the end of the year and have 20 trained staff in place before the government provide any funding which will not be until next summer so some financially, challenging months ahead!

The opening couldn’t be an opening without the customary speeches, followed by the customary Fantas – here, you cannot have speeches without Fantas or Fantas without speeches. Rwandans do love their speeches and also their introductions, so everyone has to be introduced, stand up and wave to everyone and maybe say something. Then the speeches, all in Kinyarwandan with someone translating bits into English for me, and they are often long and many – I think we had three hours of speeches before the Fantas appeared. I can’t help but compare it to what we do in the UK where we would say “right, we only have 30 minutes so let’s keep it short”. Unfortunately, the Rwandans don’t do short – apologies to my Rwandan friends who may read this as I am giving observations, not criticisms!

Speeches over, Fantas drunk & now the photos

The following day, in complete contrast to the formality of the clinic opening, I found myself on Nkombo Island - I’ve discovered if you Google ‘Nkombo Island’ my blog comes up about fifth in the list. Nkombo is the second largest island on Lake Kivu, with a population as at August 2013 of 17,000 although I suspect, at the rate they have babies here, the population has doubled since then. 80% of the islanders depend on fishing and the government have focused a lot of attention on this impoverished island with electricity, plans to connect a water pipeline and a domestic and public hygiene campaign.

My purpose of going was to give out goats. Through a donation, given to me by some students in Germany (thanks to Veronika and friends) the Diocese bought 30 female goats, to give to 30 people at a cost of around £30.00 per goat – not sure if there is any significance in the number of 30’s. Each person receives training to look after the goat that provides manure for their plot of land, where they cultivate and grow crops and foods and the idea is that the first female goat produced is given back to the Diocese to give to another person/family. The idea is to encourage them to take responsibility for their goat so others will benefit and also they develop a sense of giving rather than taking. With more goats that are produced (a goat can produce twice in a year and can give birth to two kids), they can then sell to get income so maybe they can get around £100.00 per year for as long as the goat can produce.

Emmanuel, PGH Manager, came with me and he kindly donated some money to buy a male goat, who we are going to call Emmanuel, and I am sure he will have a great time getting to know the female goats. So, Nkombo Island could be over-run by hundreds of goats in the next few years!

Dancing in celebration of  getting a goat

When we arrived, we met all the recipients in the church where we had introductions, singing, dancing and speeches (yes, those again but only short ones!). Then the goats arrived - bought in Kamembe and then taken, by foot, 11kms to where they were put on a boat and taken across to Nkombo – sadly, I missed seeing this as would have been great fun to see them get all the goats on and off a boat not to mention getting the life-jackets on them!

The goats are coming!

Taken to the back of the church, each goat had a number stuck onto its back with some paper and tape. Rounding them up took some time and then the recipients come, also with numbers, to claim their goat. Photographs, more singing and then the goats were taken home – hopefully, not to be eaten!

"Come in goat number 4 - your time is up!"

It was great to see something like this in action. The goats and their owners will be monitored to see how they are getting on and I will look in on them from time to time as I visit Nkombo.

Everyone paired up with their goat

"Why are the goats getting all the attention?"

I couldn’t be a Muzungu without talking about the weather.  We should now be well and truly into the heavy rain season now but we having days of very hot and sunny weather followed by storms and heavy rains in the evening.  Some wonderful sunsets as yet another sunset picture below shows. Fortunately, crops seem to be growing and after the rains people are busy on the land and the dusty brown landscape of the dry season is turning back into the lush and green vegetation that makes Rwanda look so beautiful.

My lush & green garden after a night of heavy rains


One of those wonderful Cyangugu sunsets

Life at the guesthouse continues to have its challenges. Whilst I love working with the staff they do, at times, test my patience and after a four day break, last week, in Kigali I was only back five minutes and to hear from Emmanuel what had been going on to find one of my heads coming on! Actually, I often think I must have two heads by the way people here in Kamembe still look at me as if I have come from outer space – I would have thought, by now, they know what a Muzungu looks like.  It felt strangely good to be in Kigali and getting no one staring at me.

So, Christmas just around the corner and whilst there is no sight and sound of it here until Christmas Eve I guess back home the cards are in the shop and the countdown has begun.  I am looking forward to coming home for Christmas for a couple of weeks although it is going to be strange to feel that coldness that you just don’t get here – I rarely have to wear a pullover so the thought of coming back and wearing heavy jackets, gloves and scarves will be quite a novelty.

Then its back in the New Year for what could be my last four months.  My two-year ‘mission’ comes to an end in May, as I keep saying to Bishop Nathan and my thoughts are turning to what happens after that.

I’m looking forward to having some friends from Southover Church in November and from Blakeney Church in January as well as other friends and visitors. We are all still mourning the loss of Janice Balfour who came here to teach earlier this year, had to return to the UK after about a week as she was ill to find out she had cancer and very sadly died shortly afterwards. Janice had been to Rwanda a couple of times, had lived in Kigali back in the 80’s and was a wonderful, kind, caring person and she is greatly missed.

Lovely Janice - Rwanda 2011

People here, also sadly, have to deal with losses of friends and family. They die without warning, often with no sign of illness or knowing what the cause was and then, often, the day later they are buried.  Remarkably, Maria who I been visiting and who is dying from AIDS is still alive – her life is no more than lying all day in bed but she always greets me with a wonderful smile and keeps in contact with the outside world through her mobile phone.  So often, the way the Rwandans use their phones here drive me mad – constant ringing and answering in middle of conversations, in meetings and not to mention shouting on them all the way on the bus to/from Kigali (sorry my Rwandan friends but this is a criticism not an observation!) but I can see, for Maria, what a blessing her phone is.  She knows everything that is going on at the guesthouse (more than I do) and she blesses me greatly when I go to see her and puts all my problems and challenges into perspective.

The mother with the sick baby that was, finally, diagnosed with water on the brain continues to care for him at home but is getting support from the church and I hope to go and visit her soon.

Recently, I had to say a good-bye to Isaie my house-helper who has gone to join a Tearfund community service programme for two months. He will be part of small team of one other Rwandan young man and four girls from the UK (he is very happy!) and is working in Muhanga, a large town about an hour from Kigali.  Isaie is really a ‘boy from the village’ so I hope this two-month experience, that I encouraged him to apply for, will help him grow in confidence and open up opportunities for other things he can do with his life rather than wash my socks! (Isaie, if you are reading this I know you do much more than this and you are greatly appreciated and missed).

Isaie saying goodbye to his Mum, brother and niece

But saying a ‘goodbye’ to Isaie, I am saying ‘hello’ to a Rwandan family of five, from Kigali, who are coming to live with me. It was going to be only three – Jonas (who is working at the guesthouse), his wife Marguerite and their two year old daughter Gaele but then I found out that Clementine, his wife’s sister, also has to come as she looks after Gaele and then, shortly after, I discovered that Marguerite is having a baby any time now.  And, if Isaie decides to come back, which I suspect he will, then there will be seven of us – fortunately, the house is big enough and I have the house next door, where I used to live or the guesthouse to escape to, if the new baby screams the house down.  I am looking forward to it, really I am!

So, my life in Rwanda continues. Exhausting, yes?  Challenging, yes? Life changing, yes? Enriching, yes?